A quick post. Saw a daffodil popping up in the front garden. I take this as a good sign !!
Front Garden

Full Bloom
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Pictures Of Garden Seedlings - 02/19/2013
Here are some current pictures of the seedlings.
Cherry Brandy Rudbeckia seedlings.
Petunia seedlings.
Lettuce mix seedlings.
More lettuce mix seedlings.
Marigold seedlings.
Zinnia seedlings.
More zinnia seedlings.
Cherry Brandy Rudbeckia seedlings.
Petunia seedlings.
Lettuce mix seedlings.
More lettuce mix seedlings.
Marigold seedlings.
Zinnia seedlings.
More zinnia seedlings.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Starting Petunias - 02/16/2013
I use Purple Wave petunias for my hanging baskets. The goal every year is to have the hanging baskets reach the railing of my porch by the first heavy frost. Due to my local climate, I can only put my petunias out around June 1st.
Petunia seedlings grow slowly. I have to start mine in February to get them ready for the June 1st planting.
I use peat pots to start my seeds. I like to use peat pots because it keeps me from disturbing the root systems of the seedlings. The roots grow firmly into the peat pots. I just pop the peat pot into a larger container of soil and let the the roots grow out of the pot.
I let the peat pots soak in water until they are full size and moist.
The peat pots start to absorb water.
Almost full grown.
Letting the excess water, if any, drain out.
The petunia seeds are very small. The planting process requires patience. I let one seed stick to my finger and drop into the center of the peat pot.
I then gently push the seed into the peat pot. Do not cover the seed with soil. Petunia seeds need light to germinate.
I cover the seed tray with a plastic cover.
Petunia seeds need light to germinate. I use three levels of lighting so I don't cook the seedlings as they emerge.
At initial planting, I put the grow lights about 2ft above the seedlings and give them about 4 hrs of light. I spray the seedlings with water about twice a day. When the plants emerge, I drop the lights down about 6 inches keeping the 4 hr exposure.
After a week I drop the lights down to regular seedling height and keep them "On" for 12 hours. I also remove the clear plastic cover. It is very important to keep the seedlings and peat pot moist. I spray the seedlings twice a day. I also pour some water in the tray so the peat pots can soak it up and keep the roots moist.
Every step is small and important. But the results are worth it. Good luck !!
Petunia seedlings grow slowly. I have to start mine in February to get them ready for the June 1st planting.
I use peat pots to start my seeds. I like to use peat pots because it keeps me from disturbing the root systems of the seedlings. The roots grow firmly into the peat pots. I just pop the peat pot into a larger container of soil and let the the roots grow out of the pot.
I let the peat pots soak in water until they are full size and moist.
The peat pots start to absorb water.
Almost full grown.
I then gently push the seed into the peat pot. Do not cover the seed with soil. Petunia seeds need light to germinate.
I cover the seed tray with a plastic cover.
Petunia seeds need light to germinate. I use three levels of lighting so I don't cook the seedlings as they emerge.
At initial planting, I put the grow lights about 2ft above the seedlings and give them about 4 hrs of light. I spray the seedlings with water about twice a day. When the plants emerge, I drop the lights down about 6 inches keeping the 4 hr exposure.
After a week I drop the lights down to regular seedling height and keep them "On" for 12 hours. I also remove the clear plastic cover. It is very important to keep the seedlings and peat pot moist. I spray the seedlings twice a day. I also pour some water in the tray so the peat pots can soak it up and keep the roots moist.
Every step is small and important. But the results are worth it. Good luck !!
Thursday, February 7, 2013
Plant Update - Seedlings - 1/7/2013
Here are couple of pictures of seedlings
Marigolds started 12/12/2012
Hopi Red Amaranth
Zinnias
Zinnia seedlings
Lavender Zinnia
Marigolds started 12/12/2012
Marigold seedlings
Zinnias
Zinnia seedlings
Lavender Zinnia
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
Seed Saving And Starting Zinnias Update (2) 01-23-2013
Here is an update of how the zinnia is doing. You can see the growth rate from the picture.
Here is my original post link:
http://backyardorganicgardener.blogspot.com/2012/12/seed-saving-and-starting-zinnias.html
I don't strive for maximum growth because where I live the plants can't go outside until approximately June 1st. I want to develop healthy roots and I leave lots of time (1 month) for hardening. I give the plants 12 hours of light per/day. The room is about 65F. For me slow and steady wins the race.
I started these on 1/19/2013.
I started this one on 12/24/2012.
I start the zinnias in peat pots and then transfer them to soil filled peat containers. I do this to minimize disturbing the root systems. The roots grow out of the small pot and into the soil in the bigger pot. The entire big pot will be transplanted into the soil. The peat pot degrades and provides nutrition for the plant. The peat pot provides the roots with a stiff structure to grow into and makes transplanting easy.
There are many ways to to it. This works for me.
I tend to start things too early because I want to make sure I have them at the right planting time. You can't reverse time. I don't want to miss my window. Besides, I love zinnias!
Here are some Zinnia California Giants getting ready to be potted.
Here is my original post link:
Seed Saving And Starting Zinnias
http://backyardorganicgardener.blogspot.com/2012/12/seed-saving-and-starting-zinnias.html
This is what the zinnia started in this post looks like today. I blurred the information on the stick because it has somebodies name on it. They will get this plant in a couple of months. I transplanted it in a discarded green pot. Looks like it just came from a commercial greenhouse.
I started these on 1/19/2013.
I started this one on 12/24/2012.
I start the zinnias in peat pots and then transfer them to soil filled peat containers. I do this to minimize disturbing the root systems. The roots grow out of the small pot and into the soil in the bigger pot. The entire big pot will be transplanted into the soil. The peat pot degrades and provides nutrition for the plant. The peat pot provides the roots with a stiff structure to grow into and makes transplanting easy.
There are many ways to to it. This works for me.
I tend to start things too early because I want to make sure I have them at the right planting time. You can't reverse time. I don't want to miss my window. Besides, I love zinnias!
Here are some Zinnia California Giants getting ready to be potted.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
Neem Oil - It Stops Aphids From Damaging My Flower Seedlings - 01-17-2013
Every year I start my seedlings indoors. And right on schedule, aphids appear and start dining on my tender juicy seedlings. But I have found something that helps minimize the damage, Neem oil!
I buy a bottle of concentrated Neem oil. I create a diluted concentration with water, per the instructions on the container, in a handy spray bottle. I apply a fine spray (all surfaces of the plant), at least once a day. After a week the aphids go away.
During the first application, you may see a few aphids fall off. The rest look unaffected. Don't worry, come back the next day and spray (remember, all surfaces of the plant).
Make sure you shake the spray bottle well before every application.
I always wear eye protection and highly recommend you do before spraying.
Check with other sources on the Internet for more details on how it works and proper applications.
I do not use Neem oil on anything I am going to eat. I use it only on flowers.
I have used it successfully on geraniums, zinnias, rudbeckia, coneflowers, and marigold seedlings.
I buy a bottle of concentrated Neem oil. I create a diluted concentration with water, per the instructions on the container, in a handy spray bottle. I apply a fine spray (all surfaces of the plant), at least once a day. After a week the aphids go away.
During the first application, you may see a few aphids fall off. The rest look unaffected. Don't worry, come back the next day and spray (remember, all surfaces of the plant).
Make sure you shake the spray bottle well before every application.
I always wear eye protection and highly recommend you do before spraying.
Check with other sources on the Internet for more details on how it works and proper applications.
I do not use Neem oil on anything I am going to eat. I use it only on flowers.
I have used it successfully on geraniums, zinnias, rudbeckia, coneflowers, and marigold seedlings.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Gooseberries - Picture Of The Day 1-16-2013
I have 3 green and 3 red gooseberry bushes. They are 5 years old.
Here is one of the bushes. You can see the berries in development.
I like them because they produce ripe berries relatively early in the season.
The green gooseberries get small caterpillars that eat the young leaves. The red gooseberries don't have this issue.
I get about 6 pints of berries. I eat them fresh or make jam out of them.
The bushes have sharp thorns but they are easy to avoid.
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